COVERED AND SMOTHERED!!!

Like the weekend warrior i am, i got up to surf at 6am and remembered... dammit high tide is around 9:30... back to bed i go.. and get to the beach around 11 with the single fin... semicrowded with some fun waves... a lot of wallas... just had to be patient for those shoulders... so i get in the water, much warmer than the last sessions (i dont get cold easily)... i start paddling and start to wonder, why the hell do i feel so damn heavy and not moving??? so i was thinking about this for about 45 minutes and it threw me off... and to make things even worse, i kicked the tail when i tried to catch a wave... so finally, i say to myself, stop thinking and just surf... i caught the next wave and it felt good... the pop up and the ride... the stoke started to fill in and i just went aggro on any think that looked catchable... so my second wave, i catch and ride it in pretty close to shore... when i see the wave getting ready to close out, i usually just go over it, fall on my board and paddle back out... but this time, i thought to myself... hey, that looks like a barrel!!!! ok, mini-barrel... so i squat and pull into it... and yes ladies and gentlemen, the bean counting surfer got covered and smothered!!! even though i didnt make it out, it was such a great feeling!!!! i was soo stoked after that i surfed for another 2 hours... i was drained the rest of the day and went to bed at 9!!!!

sunday rolls around and i get up at 6 and at the beach by 7... knowing my shoulders (dislocated them soo many times, i get tired quick) i take the 9'6 becker... this is the board i learned to surf on... it just feels really wierd... its a longboard and i can just manhandle the it... not like the dewey... that thing is a tank... i usually just hang out in the cove when im on the single fin, but with a longboard, im bacon at the point... and dammit im a wave hog (ok that joke was funny in my head)... didnt stay long, probably about an hour and a half... caught a hand full of waves... wind started to show up and f-ed everything up... pretty fun weekend...

coworker: wow theres something different with your face, did you shave or something?
BCS: no, im just getting darker (i shave everyday) **pulls down neck of shirt and shows tan line**
coworker: whoa!

and i just added some blogs i read to pass the time... hope they dont get mad!!