All tied up!!!
What a weekend of surf!!! Saturday was single fin day... waves were semi-good... caught a couple... one wave to mention was when i tried to smack the lip... i drove down the line and saw it starting to close out, so i go to the bottom of the wave then point my board up towards the lip... i suprise myself and shoot up.. so once i get up there, i "smack" the lip, but it didnt work.. i think the single fin is too heavy or im doing it wrong.. guess ill still have to try...
In the middle of the saturday sesh, i was paddling back out from a wave and i see this set wave start to suck up... so i decide to wave for it to break so i can duck dive it.. bad move!! i should have kept paddling!!! by the time i realize it, its too late... the lip smashed and drove me to the bottom.. and i mean bottm... ive never touched the bottom this far out.. and it hurt so much, i felt it in my teeth!!!! still didnt stop me from surfing another hour and a half..
Sunday was waaaaaaayyyy better!!! i took out the dewey... set waves were pretty big and it took me a while to paddle out.. then the madness happened... the wavehog came out and i caught anything that looked good... after a couple, i stopped and waited for the set waves that were coming through... at countyline, i figured out that the 2nd wave is most of the time, the best... sitting far out, i start talking to another longboarder waiting for the sets... mark from MV... we just start taking turns... pretty cool...
9:45 rolls around and i have to get out soon, so i can meet with my family for mother's day lunch... so finally, after a long wait (my hair dried) a set wave comes through... i catch it... have to say this was a really fun wave... i was going up and down the wave, putting my arm in the wave and finally, the wave starts to suck up and close out... usually, when this happens i just head straight towards the beach, but this time was different... i keep goin and crouch... yes ladies and gentlemen, i got covered!!!! this time was soo much better than the first... i actually saw the lip go over my shoulder and i could see out the opening at the other end... didnt make it out, but im gonna be stoked for the whole week!!!! HELL YEAH!!!
one more note from sunday, theres this girl that i surfs really well... ive seen her about 7 or 8 times.. and damn she has a lot of boards!!!! i think ive seen her surf the same board twice... too bad i saw her when i was getting ready to leave.. next time ill ask her what she does for a living..
bad wave= 1
good wave= 1
In the middle of the saturday sesh, i was paddling back out from a wave and i see this set wave start to suck up... so i decide to wave for it to break so i can duck dive it.. bad move!! i should have kept paddling!!! by the time i realize it, its too late... the lip smashed and drove me to the bottom.. and i mean bottm... ive never touched the bottom this far out.. and it hurt so much, i felt it in my teeth!!!! still didnt stop me from surfing another hour and a half..
Sunday was waaaaaaayyyy better!!! i took out the dewey... set waves were pretty big and it took me a while to paddle out.. then the madness happened... the wavehog came out and i caught anything that looked good... after a couple, i stopped and waited for the set waves that were coming through... at countyline, i figured out that the 2nd wave is most of the time, the best... sitting far out, i start talking to another longboarder waiting for the sets... mark from MV... we just start taking turns... pretty cool...
9:45 rolls around and i have to get out soon, so i can meet with my family for mother's day lunch... so finally, after a long wait (my hair dried) a set wave comes through... i catch it... have to say this was a really fun wave... i was going up and down the wave, putting my arm in the wave and finally, the wave starts to suck up and close out... usually, when this happens i just head straight towards the beach, but this time was different... i keep goin and crouch... yes ladies and gentlemen, i got covered!!!! this time was soo much better than the first... i actually saw the lip go over my shoulder and i could see out the opening at the other end... didnt make it out, but im gonna be stoked for the whole week!!!! HELL YEAH!!!
one more note from sunday, theres this girl that i surfs really well... ive seen her about 7 or 8 times.. and damn she has a lot of boards!!!! i think ive seen her surf the same board twice... too bad i saw her when i was getting ready to leave.. next time ill ask her what she does for a living..
bad wave= 1
good wave= 1
posted by BeanCountingSurfer at 7:33 AM
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