Damn

The one day (Sunday) I go south to surf, I get a bunch of closeouts. Got to the South Bay around 8, but didn't stay in the water too long because I had to be in the LBC by10:30 and the high tide started showing. Caught one wave, stood up and went straight. Oh well, next time.

Saturday, was fun but windy and cold. Took out the tanker and caught some good chest high set waves. I forgot how easy it is to catch waves on that thing. Funny how you look at the lone guy who can catch the set wave coming through and he just waves back at you. DUDE! CATCH IT! HAHAHAHA! Good times... guess you had to be there... actually, good you thing weren't.

Went into Val Surf this weekend. A Channel Islands 6'2 (around there) Retro Fish is $800. So glad I got mine for $300!

What what the hell is this crazy talk about quadruple overhead or 20ft waves??!?!!?! Is this Mamma Nature's way of saying sorry for the sucky waves during the summer? "Cough, cough. Hi boss, I need to see the waves... I mean doctor. I'm not feeling too well." Be safe and don't get hurt.

Merry Christmas! I finally caught the bug!