Monday, January 09, 2006

Woo Hoo!!

Even though I only surfed one day this weekend, Sunday, it was super good. Only caught maybe 5 waves in about 2 hours; wave quality was an issue. They looked big, but died out once you started paddling for it. After about 30 minutes in the water, I caught my first wave and it was a good one. I popped up, made my bottom turn and set my rail in sweet spot of the wave. I saw the lip trying to kiss me so I just pumped once and got away. What made this wave soo much better was the shaper paddling back out and smiling at me. "Yes, sir, that was a super good one."

After another 45 minutes of waiting and a couple of low quality rides, I caught my second great ride. So I started paddling for it, popped up and thought I was gonna fall over. I caught myself and to my amazement was still on the top of the wave. Did a few pumps and bottom turns here and there. I was trying to throw some spray, but that didn't really happen. This wave just wouldn't end! It kept telling to keep going. So if you've been to Countyline, I would was I was about 10ft to the left of the staircase and made it close to the drainpipe. STOKED.

Can't wait to surf again.

On a side note, don't drive to Huntington Beach on a Friday afternoon from work. Oh, and have reservations.

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