Holy Smokes!!!

Whoa!!! I think its been almost a month since my last post... probably cause the surf has sucked major ass... I've been surfin the Dewey for a while now and stoked to have it... catching a lot of waves before the shortboarders..

So, this past Saturday, I surfed county... pretty crappy when I got in the water and a lot of waiting... maybe after 30 minutes, it started to get good... probably because of the tide push... damn I was a wave hog!!! Peaky, knee to waist and textured waves... still a lot of fun... I did a late take off and heard someone say, "OOOO airdrop!!" Now that I think about it, its been 3years and a month since i first got addicted... and damn I think I'm doing pretty well...

There was a good vibe out there... my motto is, "Dude, if its small, then I'll share my wave... Just make sure you're far enough in front of me and hit the gas..." There was a lot of wave sharing, but it was cool...

I do have to mention the time someone tried to drop in on me... probably 2-3 weeks ago... as usual, before I pop up on any wave, I look to the shoulder just to make sure I don't drop in on anyone... if the coast is clear, then I'm goin... so I took off on a left and rode the wave a good 10ft... then disaster!!! what do I see you ask? Someone trying to catch my wave... I saw him look over at me, so I stayed on the wave thinking he was gonna sit up and let me finish my wave... Yeah right!! this kook just pops up and starts to go straight!!! DUDE WTF!!! Too close to turn towards the beach or water, so I run in to him and push him down... and I think I landed on top of him... and what excuse does he give? "Sorry man, I thought you were going right.." HOLY SH!T.. are you kidding me!!! how the hell was I going right when I was coming right at you!!! It took all of my energy to hold back.. not because he dropped in... next time, just say sorry and ask I'm ok... next time, you're getting a black eye..

Hope the waves are good where you are!!!