Thursday, August 18, 2005

Bad timing...

I didn't leave work until 3 and didn't get to the beach until 4... I started my search by driving up from Santa Monica Beach... there was some wind and it was pretty flat... I just kept telling myself, "it'll get better closer to Malibu." And the farther I went up north, the waves got bigger and so did my smile... I ended up at countyline (because I didn't have the surf truck and didn't want to leave the "van" where I couldn't see it) saw the set waves, quickly changed and caught my first wave 10 minutes later... In the first hour or so, I the fun waves rolled through and I got my wave count up to 2!!!! DAMN CLOSEOUTS!! after that, it pretty much shut down... oh well, I can't complain (even though the wind was blowing and I was easily getting cold)... I stayed for about 2 hours... Kinda wish I hit up the other spots... I just saw lines rolling through on the drive home... Next time...

And how stoked am I right now?? I talked to the guy with the fish yesterday and $350!!!! Hell yeah!! He said I can surf it this weekend and check it out... what a great deal!!

Once September starts, I think I'm gonna start looking for a new spot... I think I've just gotten used to CL and need to push myself with different waves...

And damn my friend that works for the "Stone." He left work early yesterday and went to the Wavehouse... He said he got barreled... I think I need to find a new job!!!!

Later!

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