Calm before the storm?

So here' s my take on the no swell situation Southern California is going through... Could it be that mother nature is winding up and getting ready to deliver gnarly winter swell after gnarly winter swell? One can only hope because this lake stuff isn't funny!!!

I hit up Countyline this Saturday with my newly code-named surf buddy, Scarecrow (all the waves seem to disappear when i surf with her)... she lives in Santa Monica now.. kinda cool cause she checked out Sunset and said there were a bunch of people contempleting and one guy in the water... so, while she was driving to CL, I suited up and hit the water... i would say knee to belly button high waves, but mostly knee... and damn i was an animal!!! i think i caught around 20-25 waves in the 35 minutes i was surfing without Scarecrow... most of them were super short rides, but i did manage to get in a couple cheater fives and a cover up in calf high water... Scarecrow said it looked cool, so I was stoked...

Scarecrow got mad at me because i let my cousin borrow my other longboard for decoration, so she had to use her 7'10... i told her we could switch... so im surfing this chickie board and im hauling ass paddling and catching waves every now and then and just having fun... i think it was after the second wave with her board that i razzed her for not waxing it around the tail... i tried to turn it and my foot slid backwards... kinda did the splits and ran my foot over her leash plug and rail saver... still had a good time on her board and it makes me think, maybe i shouldnt have sold the funboard i bought a year and a half ago... i think id have a lot of fun on it...

Towards the end of the session, i got my board back damn my tanker is huge... we decided to try to catch a few more before we left... so a set wave rolls through, slowly, so i start paddling for it and take one more look over my shoulder to make sure it was still coming... cool, its still there!!! then all of a sudden, it died out!!! Scarecrow said that after it died, i had an "angry at the world look..." ahh good times!!!

I also called in sick monday because our financial systems were down for fiscal close... yeah.. i should have gone to work.. super flat... i did get jealous at a blonde teenager... but not because she was catching waves, but because she asked her sister if she wanted to go home with their dad or paddle home... PADDLE HOME!!! WTF!!! DUDE PADDLE HOME!!!

I called Dewey Weber and found out that the hatchet fin doesn't really work on their Stylist board.. need more of a square tail.... oh well back to saving up for the twin fin!!!!

And what's with all my fellow bloggers thinking about quitting?? Who cares!!! write!!! I thought web logs were kinda like diaries... there are always gonna be people that disagree, agree, enjoy or hate what you write... not everyone thinks the same... and you know it has to be interesting cause why else would you get soo many comments... **cough**wiff**cough** i say keep writing... i like reading about the adventures of my online surf buddies... and if they dont like it, then they can delete the address from their Favorites...

DUDE, I RODE A CHICK BOARD!!! WTF!!! HAHAHAHAHA!!!

And last but not least... what happened to Beachgirl? did she give up on surfing?

Come on waves!!! Come out and play!! I sacrificed my Surfing mag subscription for waves!! Now come on!!! ok, i just didnt renew it...