Who me?

So Friday night, my buddy calls me at 10:30pm and says, "Hey, come down and let's surf tomorrow!" Hell yeah! First, I haven't surfed with him for months and its Newport... Saturday morning rolls around, I wake up at 6, take his bike (yes, he lives that damn close!) and check the surf... not great, but there were some waves (maybe waist high)... I wake him up and we're in the water at 6:30... Man, the currents were just gnar... every time I paddled to a certain spot, I would be down the beach 30 seconds later... anyway, I sucked it up pretty bad... I caught3 waves and one of them was when I tried to pull out but ended up catching the wave on my ass... AND I FORGOT SUN BLOCK!!! my face was burning the rest of the day...

Sunday was soo much better!! Took out the Tanker cause I knew the waves wouldn't be so great... And, don't you hate it when you have to be somewhere (Father's day lunch) and the waves are fun? Well my wave of the day... actually, I'm gonna be bold and say that it was the wave of the morning... It was getting pretty crowded at the point so I decided to sit way out and wait for the set waves... I was beginning to think, "Dude, what am I doin? I'm too far out.." So I wait 5 more minutes and damn glad I did... a set wave rolls in so I turn around and start paddling... right in front of me is a longboarder shitting his pants cause he sees me paddling right at him... I realize that he's frozen and not gonna move, so I angle my board to the left... This is the best part... I pop up, start goin left, just to make sure I don't run over the human iceberg, bottom turn around him to the top of the wave... Then I cross step and Hang 5!!! HELL YEAH!!! that was sooo rad!!! I'm still stoked on it!!! And the hoots I was getting made the moment even better... Damn that was a good session!!!

And a final note or two... I understand that the waves are small and no bueno during the summer... but why would you go and say, "Damn these waves are fucking crap!!" I don't get it... are you used to surfing world class waves? Go surf somewhere else....

And lastly, if you're sitting inside and try to steal my wave... don't get right in front of me... This happened to me twice, by the same guy, and he didn't even catch them... I don't mind sharing, but when you don't catch them, what's the point? Next time, your getting a longboard up your ass!!!

Holy crap and I can't believe I forgot this... I saw a guy on a light blue longboard... get this, his board had a spike on the nose... Really?? You gotta be fucking kidding me!!!