Broke his head
So all last week, I planned to do so much.. surf, run, go out and hang with super rad chick.
Friday, I leave work and head to Sunse+. That's where it got bad. Took me almost an hour to get there when it usually takes 30 mins. Get there and check the surf, nada. But hey, there are people in the water so there's gotta be something. No, not really. Managed half a ride. I got up half way and held the rail of my fish and tried a super mini head dip. Yeah!! Finally got my hair wet after about 30 minutes of just sitting and chasing. Got out about an hour later and headed to the bike shop and zj's. Big mistake. It took me forever to get there. Driving home was no fun either. I got off at 4 and didn't get home until 9:30. But I did manage to find a pair of sandals I liked. Check out the S!mple sandals. $55 at zj's but I ordered them on line for half the price. Oh and I did pick up a few (un)needed items.
Saturday was revenge day for me. On tap? Surf and run. Only half of that worked. I woke up late and drove to C0unty with the tanker. Soo much fun! Waist to chest, I think. 2 hours of constant wave catching and paddling back out with the occasional rest here and there. For a while, another longboarder and I were holding one of the peaks in front of the drain pipe. One wave of mention. Took off on one of the set waves. A lot of them were closing out after my bottom turns but this one just wouldn't break. I kept pumping the tanker just like the other good longboarders. Geez that thing is heavy! While on the wave, I noticed a sound of moving rock. I thought I had gone too far in (super low tide) but it was my tail making all that noise. Ended it with hitting the lip (if wanna call it that) and headed for the beach and jumped off, in waist deep water. A few waves after this, I started walking the board trying to at least hang 5. I have forgotten how to cross step so I'm back to the good ol' hop over to the nose move. Managed a hang 5 and tried to get covered. Yeah, I know. What was I thinking!! I was way too high on the wave and got pitched, tumbled and popped up under my board and hit the side of my head. No blacking out or stars, but I did have a gnarly bump on my head. I headed home after 30 minutes. Got home, and slept.. Pretty much slept the entire weekend away. Damn that bump really messed me up.
I did get out Sunday nite to see a movie premiere with the best bud. Mingled with a few surfers and artists. The movie inspired me. There is no right way of art.
So from now until after the marathon, no more surfing for this dude. Doesn't hurt as much to say that cause of the expected rain at the end of the week.
Can you feel it?? It's almost race season!!!
Friday, I leave work and head to Sunse+. That's where it got bad. Took me almost an hour to get there when it usually takes 30 mins. Get there and check the surf, nada. But hey, there are people in the water so there's gotta be something. No, not really. Managed half a ride. I got up half way and held the rail of my fish and tried a super mini head dip. Yeah!! Finally got my hair wet after about 30 minutes of just sitting and chasing. Got out about an hour later and headed to the bike shop and zj's. Big mistake. It took me forever to get there. Driving home was no fun either. I got off at 4 and didn't get home until 9:30. But I did manage to find a pair of sandals I liked. Check out the S!mple sandals. $55 at zj's but I ordered them on line for half the price. Oh and I did pick up a few (un)needed items.
Saturday was revenge day for me. On tap? Surf and run. Only half of that worked. I woke up late and drove to C0unty with the tanker. Soo much fun! Waist to chest, I think. 2 hours of constant wave catching and paddling back out with the occasional rest here and there. For a while, another longboarder and I were holding one of the peaks in front of the drain pipe. One wave of mention. Took off on one of the set waves. A lot of them were closing out after my bottom turns but this one just wouldn't break. I kept pumping the tanker just like the other good longboarders. Geez that thing is heavy! While on the wave, I noticed a sound of moving rock. I thought I had gone too far in (super low tide) but it was my tail making all that noise. Ended it with hitting the lip (if wanna call it that) and headed for the beach and jumped off, in waist deep water. A few waves after this, I started walking the board trying to at least hang 5. I have forgotten how to cross step so I'm back to the good ol' hop over to the nose move. Managed a hang 5 and tried to get covered. Yeah, I know. What was I thinking!! I was way too high on the wave and got pitched, tumbled and popped up under my board and hit the side of my head. No blacking out or stars, but I did have a gnarly bump on my head. I headed home after 30 minutes. Got home, and slept.. Pretty much slept the entire weekend away. Damn that bump really messed me up.
I did get out Sunday nite to see a movie premiere with the best bud. Mingled with a few surfers and artists. The movie inspired me. There is no right way of art.
So from now until after the marathon, no more surfing for this dude. Doesn't hurt as much to say that cause of the expected rain at the end of the week.
Can you feel it?? It's almost race season!!!
posted by BeanCountingSurfer at 2:19 PM
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