Thursday, September 22, 2005

I need a bigger umbrella

Damn, when will it stop... Guess they're right when they say, "When it rains, it pours." In my case, it's, "When it rains, it's diarrhea!" Yes, ladies and gentlemen, the Bean Counting Surfer is going through some shit (dog, grandma, parents, job, blah, blah, blah).

I'm taking tomorrow off to surf and visit my grandma. Rolling with Scarecrow and another good buddy to Countyline.

I CAN'T WAIT TO SURF TOMORROW!.

Thursday, September 15, 2005

Talk like a Pirate Day

Monday, 9/19/05.

What's a pirate's favorite body part? An EYE, matey!!!

Wednesday, September 14, 2005

Busy

Haven't posted in a while... I blame work. It never ends!!! :P

So, I finally got the Fish and kicked the kook bug.. more like stomped a mud hole in it.. So 9/3, I surfed my 6'1 DLC for the first half of my session, then I took out the 6'2 Fish for the second half. I need to work on dialing in my DLC (and lose a few more lbs.). I think I'm gonna have a lot of fun with that board... but back to the Fish... I love this thing. Floats like a funboard and is super fast.

Sunday, 9/4, Scarecrow and I hit up Ceros and had a lot of fun. She was really scared about surfing there cause the waves were bigger than she was used to. Pretty fun spot, but I don't know if I'll be hitting it often. Only 1, maybe 2 take off spots. Possibly a 3rd, but that would put you in the rocks and I don't feel like petting them. I managed 2 waves and ate it on a 3. Took a ride over the falls. That was fun; ok, maybe not. Haven't been "washed" around like that in a while.

Hit up Countyline 9/5 and this past weekend. This past Saturday was the best. Not really crowded and not that many waves. Set waves were only chest high. There were a few longboarders out, so I thought I would have a difficult time trying to catch the sets. Damn I was wrong. I was sitting outside with them and catching most of them. There was one wave where a longboarder caught it super early and was making his way down the wave while I was paddling back out. So, I whip around and catch the wave. I had a lot of fun on the Fish. On one wave that I caught, I think I positioned my self perfectly because it just took off.

My stoke kinda came down a little this past Sunday by one of the regulars at County. Waves were less than good and I was kind of tired. I was trying to catch a wave with a longboarder and he had the right of way. I kept looking over at him just to make sure he caught the wave. The wave started to break on him and I thought I saw the nose of his board coming down so I backed off. Suddenly, I realize that he went for a ride over the falls and I try to catch the wave. Tried a little popup, but I was too late. While paddling back out, the regular is yelling, "Paddle Brah! Paddle!" Then I think I had a Whiff moment. Was he talking to me or to the longboarder? I think he was talking to me? Just took me down and the rest of my sesion wasn't fun. Oh well..

Swell on Friday and I'm taking the day off, but mostly for my dog. She needs surgery for a Uteral Prolapse. Word to the wise, get your dogs spayed or neutered. I would have the surgery done on Tuesday, but I can't afford a $600-$1000 bill. Thank God for The Concerned People for Animals. They found me a Vet that can do it for $300 in Camarrillo. Then I'm hitting the waves.

GO GET SOME!!!!