Monday, August 29, 2005

What happened?

Damn, I really kooked it up this weekend... I couldn't keep my board with me... I kept loosing it and it came really close to people paddling out... I couldn't keep my feet on the board (I blame the wax for this) and I pearled big time on a set wave that would have kept me stoked for the week...

And to top it off, I think I tweaked my shoulder!

This is depressing... I apologize to my fellow surfers... I won't let it happen again...

Catch some good ones for me!

Wednesday, August 24, 2005

Great idea?

I saw this while cruising the internet. Its a surfboard lock that attaches to your fin box or leash plug. If someone really wanted to steal the board, can't they just cut through the cable?

http://www.dockslocks.com/demo.htm


Monday, August 22, 2005

Should have drove

What's up fellow online surfers!!!

Man am I tired!! Went to the Coldplay concert last night with a friend... super good show... I really liked the lighting. The concert didn't finish until 11pm and we're in the car by 11:30pm. And WTF!!! Who the hell had the bright idea of having one outlet from the parking lot? We were stuck in parking lot traffic for about 45 minutes. I did manage to entertain myself by getting people in SUV's to go over the mini-curb. I got one person to do it; it was a Mercedes ML. Then an Escalade pulled up next to us and I'm trying to convince him to go over and he says, "We're too heavy." WTF!!! Are you gonna carry it over the curv? Too bad my friend drove her car. I should have drove the Dodge, we would have be on the freeway in no time.

So why do swells decide to show up during the week? Come on Mother Nature, show some love for us weekend warriors! Pretty Please! I surfed Countyline with Scarecrow this past Saturday. The waves were breaking pretty close to shore and if you didn't make the drop, you got worked. I surfed Scarecrow's board for most of the session and damn her for not waxing the tail! I did the splits 3 times and got worked big time. Her board decided to massage my shins ever so lightly. And damn there was a lot of kelp. My last wave, I went left and tried for a coverup (yeah, what was I thinking) and got dumped in the mush pit. I tried to paddle back out but my entire leash was covered in kelp. I just left. Speaking of lefts, I did checkout LPB (thanks for telling me what it means Whiff). Way better than Countyline, but there aren't that many take off spots and I didn't want to leave Scarecrow fending for herself. I think I will check it out soon.

And I met up with the Twin Fin guy. $300 for a Classic KG classic twin fin. I think I'll name it the Bruin board =). Hopefully have it beginning of September. One thing that Twin Fin guy did mention was citrus. He took off the wax and told me, "I didn't have citrus." What does citus do? Anybody know?

Let's review my quiver: 10'0 Dewey Weber Tanker, 9'6 Becker Performance (my bro's, he doesn't surf anymore), 6'6 Doc Single fin and a 6'1 DLC Potato Chip... With the twin fin, I think I'm done buying boards, right? RIIIIIIIIGHT.....

Gonna hit up Newport Saturday. Hope this end of the week swell holds over until then. Happy Wave Catching! Can someone do a Cheater 5 for me... its been so long since I've done one.

Thursday, August 18, 2005

Bad timing...

I didn't leave work until 3 and didn't get to the beach until 4... I started my search by driving up from Santa Monica Beach... there was some wind and it was pretty flat... I just kept telling myself, "it'll get better closer to Malibu." And the farther I went up north, the waves got bigger and so did my smile... I ended up at countyline (because I didn't have the surf truck and didn't want to leave the "van" where I couldn't see it) saw the set waves, quickly changed and caught my first wave 10 minutes later... In the first hour or so, I the fun waves rolled through and I got my wave count up to 2!!!! DAMN CLOSEOUTS!! after that, it pretty much shut down... oh well, I can't complain (even though the wind was blowing and I was easily getting cold)... I stayed for about 2 hours... Kinda wish I hit up the other spots... I just saw lines rolling through on the drive home... Next time...

And how stoked am I right now?? I talked to the guy with the fish yesterday and $350!!!! Hell yeah!! He said I can surf it this weekend and check it out... what a great deal!!

Once September starts, I think I'm gonna start looking for a new spot... I think I've just gotten used to CL and need to push myself with different waves...

And damn my friend that works for the "Stone." He left work early yesterday and went to the Wavehouse... He said he got barreled... I think I need to find a new job!!!!

Later!

Tuesday, August 16, 2005

Don't tell my boss

I'm going to try to take a half day tomorrow and catch some surf... or at least leave early... hope this swell is for real... I think I'll hit up Shopanga

Saturday, I take out the tanker and for the first 30 minutes I'm struggling and cussing myself out... Maybe I was too tired from my workout the night before, but all I did was run... oh well... I just relaxed and tried to have fun... I caught a lot of waves and once this guy on a swallow tail highlighter yellow board got out of the water, I caught most of the set waves... I also realized what a wave hog I was, so I let a few roll through for the shortboarders..

Sunday was single fin day... didn't catch much, but I did notice the paddling difference... I guess swimming twice a week is helping... Talked to a guy about buying his 6'2 twin fin... I swear every time hes out, he has a new board... this time it was a 5'9 single fin (i think)... I'm still thinking about buying it... I'm still looking to move out and once that happens, I'll be taking the bus to the beach and everywhere else...

And does anyone else have a spring suit tan? Here I am all nice and dark working out and once I hit the pool its like I'm wearing a khaki colored t-shirt...

So there was this DAD (dumb ass dad) who really pissed me off on Saturday... He was teaching his kid how to surf... or at least telling him when to paddle... but this dad was telling his son to paddle for waves when he shouldn't.. basically dropping in on everyone... One time, the kid was paddling for a wave and the guy with the highlighter stick was coming down the line... kid pearled and highlighter guy caught his board... So he paddles to the dad and they're arguing for a good 20 minutes... I couldn't hear what they were saying cause I was over in the cove...

Once highlighter guy left, I took over his spot... and DAD and son were still there... Yeah, you guessed it, I got into an argument with him too!!! I saw a set wave come and naturally start paddling for it... then I hear, "Paddle! Paddle!" I'm hoping the kid doesn't catch it... So I'm up on a fun one then all of a sudden I see this board come at me.. I caught it and pushed it aside... went over the wave and paddled towards the dad and say, "Dude, you're gonna get your kid hurt..." He says sorry, HE DIDN'T SEE ME... I tell him to take him to a beginner's beach and suggest Mando's Cove... he says something about this being a beginner's beach and I should know that, especially on a day like this... ok, you win... So, I'm sitting there, over it... then he says, "I gave you that wave anyway; I caught it way before you did.." I'm thinking to myself, "You're an idiot. You just told me that you didn't see me... HOW THE HELL IS IT YOUR WAVE... and he wasn't even up on the wave... I say, "Seriously!??!?!" then he says, "Yeah, seriously (with a bit of Yeah I'm right attitude)" I just ignore him... waves aren't worth arguing over... I just used the energy to catch more waves...

And now for my question: Who gets the wave (in my situation)? The person closest to the shoulder (me) or the peron who caught it farther out (supposedly)? There is about 10 yards between us.

I say I get it. What do you think?

Friday, August 12, 2005

Guess what I did at work today?

I hope InstantBoulderKit doesn't get mad that I copied his idea... damn I love Fridays!!!!

Surfin' Sunset Sunday!!!! See ya!!!


I still haven't figured out a good color combo for the text.. but I'll get it right soon...

NOOOO!!!

Yesterday I swam at the gym pool (I hate running) as usual and I woke up this morning and my shoulder hurts!!!! NOOOOO!!!

I have very bad shoulders... I dislocated them 4 times in 3 months during college playing basketball... and never let them heal... I only took off a few days and thought that was enough... the last time i dislocated them, I went to the hospital... umm yeah, you need a few months to totally heal them... I don't play basketball or rock climb (been wanting to try it out) just so I can surf...

Please tell me I just slept weird last night and they'll be all better by tomorrow morning!!!

I can't wait to surf!!! And I'm really desperate for good waves!!!

Tuesday, August 09, 2005

On a side note

I hit the gym about 4-5 times a week and for the past 3 months, I've been working on my balance by standing on a stability (swiss) ball.... At first, I held on to the barbell on the squat rack, but now I can kneel on it and work my way to standing on it.

So why the FUCK does this 70 year old personal trainer come and tell me I can't do it anymore? I'm thinking, ummm why didn't you tell me this when I first started doing it? Why didn't you tell me when I was doing it right in front of you and your fellow trainers? FUCK YOU BITCH!!! I'm glad I made you look dumb in front of your client when I told you to go get the manager to tell me to stop... Next time I see you walk by, I'm dropping a weight on your foot...

BITE ME!!!

ahh much better... carry on...

Calm before the storm?

So here' s my take on the no swell situation Southern California is going through... Could it be that mother nature is winding up and getting ready to deliver gnarly winter swell after gnarly winter swell? One can only hope because this lake stuff isn't funny!!!

I hit up Countyline this Saturday with my newly code-named surf buddy, Scarecrow (all the waves seem to disappear when i surf with her)... she lives in Santa Monica now.. kinda cool cause she checked out Sunset and said there were a bunch of people contempleting and one guy in the water... so, while she was driving to CL, I suited up and hit the water... i would say knee to belly button high waves, but mostly knee... and damn i was an animal!!! i think i caught around 20-25 waves in the 35 minutes i was surfing without Scarecrow... most of them were super short rides, but i did manage to get in a couple cheater fives and a cover up in calf high water... Scarecrow said it looked cool, so I was stoked...

Scarecrow got mad at me because i let my cousin borrow my other longboard for decoration, so she had to use her 7'10... i told her we could switch... so im surfing this chickie board and im hauling ass paddling and catching waves every now and then and just having fun... i think it was after the second wave with her board that i razzed her for not waxing it around the tail... i tried to turn it and my foot slid backwards... kinda did the splits and ran my foot over her leash plug and rail saver... still had a good time on her board and it makes me think, maybe i shouldnt have sold the funboard i bought a year and a half ago... i think id have a lot of fun on it...

Towards the end of the session, i got my board back damn my tanker is huge... we decided to try to catch a few more before we left... so a set wave rolls through, slowly, so i start paddling for it and take one more look over my shoulder to make sure it was still coming... cool, its still there!!! then all of a sudden, it died out!!! Scarecrow said that after it died, i had an "angry at the world look..." ahh good times!!!

I also called in sick monday because our financial systems were down for fiscal close... yeah.. i should have gone to work.. super flat... i did get jealous at a blonde teenager... but not because she was catching waves, but because she asked her sister if she wanted to go home with their dad or paddle home... PADDLE HOME!!! WTF!!! DUDE PADDLE HOME!!!

I called Dewey Weber and found out that the hatchet fin doesn't really work on their Stylist board.. need more of a square tail.... oh well back to saving up for the twin fin!!!!

And what's with all my fellow bloggers thinking about quitting?? Who cares!!! write!!! I thought web logs were kinda like diaries... there are always gonna be people that disagree, agree, enjoy or hate what you write... not everyone thinks the same... and you know it has to be interesting cause why else would you get soo many comments... **cough**wiff**cough** i say keep writing... i like reading about the adventures of my online surf buddies... and if they dont like it, then they can delete the address from their Favorites...

DUDE, I RODE A CHICK BOARD!!! WTF!!! HAHAHAHAHA!!!

And last but not least... what happened to Beachgirl? did she give up on surfing?

Come on waves!!! Come out and play!! I sacrificed my Surfing mag subscription for waves!! Now come on!!! ok, i just didnt renew it...

Friday, August 05, 2005

My next purchase

HATCHET FIN for the tanker!!! Oh man, time to take a long lunch today...

See you in the water!

Tuesday, August 02, 2005

Sunny G.

Monday, August 01, 2005

My nipples got worked!!!

So, surf sucked ass this weekend... took my cousins (6 of them and the oldest 13) to the beach... couldnt really take them out because it was choppy and just too gnarly for them... so while they played in the sand, I tried to surf but it was just a bunch of short close out rides... Saturday, I went to San Diego to bring my brother a bed and try to catch some warm water surfin... Dude, I thought SD water was supposed to be warm... I trunked it and kinda froze... I wouldn't really care about the water temps if there were some waves but damn... waves there were not! just a bunch of sitting and waiting... And since the water was cold, my nipples were hard... sooo they just got worked rubbing on the wax... Is that why they make warm water wax? Sunday was Countyline and super flat... I think I saw 3 waist high sets roll through in 2 hours!!! And I really think I should stay away from the flat days, cause thats when I get hurt the most... First, I took a lip on the face and now I have a swollen cheek bone... and then I took a set wave to shore and was going to try to smack the white water I that was coming at me... didnt do it right and ended up smacking the bottom with the back of my head... didnt black out, thankfully, and caught another wave before I left.. I do have to mention the two hot chickies out in the water... damn, why am I such a wimp when it comes to talking to girls??? At least I said Good Morning...

I also went to the Bruce movie premiere... super good... after the movie, I walked around and tried to catch some stuff they were tossing from the roof of the werehouse... didnt get anything and kept walking around... and HOLY SHIT!! I saw Sunny Garcia and got a picture with him... always thought I'd be calm and cool around pro surfers or celebs but damn I was just like a kid in a toy store!! I'll try to post the pic later.... I also saw Kala Alexander, but he was walking the other way... Caught some of the Goons of Doom set and I have to thank my friend for forgetting to tell me that the suprise band was Pennywise!!! I left after 3 songs by the Goons...

Things I've seen the past 2 weeks that made me ask myself, "Really??"
-A guy surfing with an Ipod
-Two guys on a tandem cycle
-On the way back from SD, people were driving 65 in the fast lane and I was doing 80 in the slow lane
-People at the movie who were there just to be there... I was standing next to 3 chickies and they talked, played with their phones and basically watched a total of 5 minutes of the movie

Time to look for an apartment so I can be closer to work and more importantly, closer to the water!!!

And someone turn on the wave machine??!?!?!