Monday, May 16, 2005

Surf- the cure for the common hangover

so i drank a little too much friday nite and saw my dinner... doh!! so with a hangover and 4 hours of sleep, i drag myself outta bed and head to countyline... man was it small!!! but i knew this and brought the tanker with me... HA HA Shortboarders!!! so im catching a lot of small waves and havin fun... then disaster strikes!!! i pull deltoid muscle!!! and its not one of those that you can just massage and itll go away... its monday morning and it still hurts!!! anyway, im sitting on my board rubbing my deltoid contemplating if i should go in or just tough it out... i look over at the point and some fun ones are rolling in and nobody is on them... yeah i stayed in... paddled over to the point and have the time of my life... i think i made one of the two guys that were there before me leave... sorry bro!! im catching all the "set" *knee high* waves, paddling back out and catching even more...

oh i forgot to mention that before the disaster, i was catching some lefts and trying new stuff... i tried to switch to goofy foot while on a wave... yeah not so much... the 6 or 7 times i tried it, i just fell on backwards... maybe next time ill be healthier and bend my knees...

yeah no surf on sunday.. just slept and rested... might take friday off to surf cause im goin to WEENIE ROAST THIS SATURDAY!!! HELL YEAH!!!

Monday, May 09, 2005

All tied up!!!

What a weekend of surf!!! Saturday was single fin day... waves were semi-good... caught a couple... one wave to mention was when i tried to smack the lip... i drove down the line and saw it starting to close out, so i go to the bottom of the wave then point my board up towards the lip... i suprise myself and shoot up.. so once i get up there, i "smack" the lip, but it didnt work.. i think the single fin is too heavy or im doing it wrong.. guess ill still have to try...

In the middle of the saturday sesh, i was paddling back out from a wave and i see this set wave start to suck up... so i decide to wave for it to break so i can duck dive it.. bad move!! i should have kept paddling!!! by the time i realize it, its too late... the lip smashed and drove me to the bottom.. and i mean bottm... ive never touched the bottom this far out.. and it hurt so much, i felt it in my teeth!!!! still didnt stop me from surfing another hour and a half..

Sunday was waaaaaaayyyy better!!! i took out the dewey... set waves were pretty big and it took me a while to paddle out.. then the madness happened... the wavehog came out and i caught anything that looked good... after a couple, i stopped and waited for the set waves that were coming through... at countyline, i figured out that the 2nd wave is most of the time, the best... sitting far out, i start talking to another longboarder waiting for the sets... mark from MV... we just start taking turns... pretty cool...

9:45 rolls around and i have to get out soon, so i can meet with my family for mother's day lunch... so finally, after a long wait (my hair dried) a set wave comes through... i catch it... have to say this was a really fun wave... i was going up and down the wave, putting my arm in the wave and finally, the wave starts to suck up and close out... usually, when this happens i just head straight towards the beach, but this time was different... i keep goin and crouch... yes ladies and gentlemen, i got covered!!!! this time was soo much better than the first... i actually saw the lip go over my shoulder and i could see out the opening at the other end... didnt make it out, but im gonna be stoked for the whole week!!!! HELL YEAH!!!

one more note from sunday, theres this girl that i surfs really well... ive seen her about 7 or 8 times.. and damn she has a lot of boards!!!! i think ive seen her surf the same board twice... too bad i saw her when i was getting ready to leave.. next time ill ask her what she does for a living..

bad wave= 1
good wave= 1

Friday, May 06, 2005

Woohoo!!!

Didnt rain that much so countyline, here i come!!!! with the forecast for this weekend, it looks like ill be taking the single fin... damn i cant wait...

Monday, May 02, 2005

Injured to Lucky in 3 days

So last wednesday, i pulled a muscle... somewhere on my back, between my shoulder blade and spine... hurt like a motherf-er!!!! moving hurt... and the slim chances of me sneaking in a quick session before heading to mex disappeared... then again dont know if could have made it anyway... so thursday sucked ass, but i still managed to run... so i slept 13 hours friday nite... fell asleep at 630 and woke up at 7 saturday...

then the trip to mex... and a new standard has been set for my next girlfriend... she must be able to drive like she stole it... dude why did my first time to mex take so long??? what the hell.. soo much fun... then again i was with 3 other girls... lets just say my new nickname will be LUCKY GUY!!!

thinking about taking a half day on friday... think theyll notice the longboard in my cubicle?