COVERED AND SMOTHERED!!!

Like the weekend warrior i am, i got up to surf at 6am and remembered... dammit high tide is around 9:30... back to bed i go.. and get to the beach around 11 with the single fin... semicrowded with some fun waves... a lot of wallas... just had to be patient for those shoulders... so i get in the water, much warmer than the last sessions (i dont get cold easily)... i start paddling and start to wonder, why the hell do i feel so damn heavy and not moving??? so i was thinking about this for about 45 minutes and it threw me off... and to make things even worse, i kicked the tail when i tried to catch a wave... so finally, i say to myself, stop thinking and just surf... i caught the next wave and it felt good... the pop up and the ride... the stoke started to fill in and i just went aggro on any think that looked catchable... so my second wave, i catch and ride it in pretty close to shore... when i see the wave getting ready to close out, i usually just go over it, fall on my board and paddle back out... but this time, i thought to myself... hey, that looks like a barrel!!!! ok, mini-barrel... so i squat and pull into it... and yes ladies and gentlemen, the bean counting surfer got covered and smothered!!! even though i didnt make it out, it was such a great feeling!!!! i was soo stoked after that i surfed for another 2 hours... i was drained the rest of the day and went to bed at 9!!!!

sunday rolls around and i get up at 6 and at the beach by 7... knowing my shoulders (dislocated them soo many times, i get tired quick) i take the 9'6 becker... this is the board i learned to surf on... it just feels really wierd... its a longboard and i can just manhandle the it... not like the dewey... that thing is a tank... i usually just hang out in the cove when im on the single fin, but with a longboard, im bacon at the point... and dammit im a wave hog (ok that joke was funny in my head)... didnt stay long, probably about an hour and a half... caught a hand full of waves... wind started to show up and f-ed everything up... pretty fun weekend...

coworker: wow theres something different with your face, did you shave or something?
BCS: no, im just getting darker (i shave everyday) **pulls down neck of shirt and shows tan line**
coworker: whoa!

and i just added some blogs i read to pass the time... hope they dont get mad!!

Ever wonder?

Ever wonder why people at the gym sit on their towels??? and then wipe their faces with the same towel??? and seriously, who keeps track of which side is for ass and which side is for your face?? i sweat a lot and just use my towel for my face...

and ever wonder why people **cough**fobs**cough** always laugh when they ask questions or talk to you??? my coworker always does that and shes talking to me about work... ohh well... have a good day, 2 more days till surf

About me

Not much to say about me... im an accountant for a well known agency and i love to surf... pretty much a weekend warrior but there are times when ill call in "sick" and come back to work a tad darker... i have a 9'6 becker legacy (actually my brothers board and i learned on it.. he doest surf anymore so its mine now) a custom 6'6 single fin from surf prescriptions (super cool retro board that im finally gettting used to) a 10 dewey weber stylist (this one hurt my pocket but im a wave hog on it) and 6'1 dlc from my friend (all i can say is i can catch waves on it.. riding it is another story).. i usually take the surftruck to countyline.. you know it when you see it... sand everywhere and gets pretty good gas mileage.. better than my v8...
my office is a great sitcom just waiting to happen... so many characters, but ill get into that whenever stuff happens...

so i guess ill start now... i surfed CL on saturday... better wave quality today... i actually did my first spray and i almost got covered... i say almost cause if it was barrelling, then i would have... probably more like a head dip... sunday was a different story... i couldnt catch as many waves as i did on saturday... probably cause i was tired from the previous day (a 3 hour session) but i did catch one good wave and i tried to smack the lip before it closed out... dont know if i was too late but the lip smacked me right in the face... instant headache.. so bad that i didnt go to work the next day... i scared myself with the thought of a concussion... all better now.. no headache.. just waiting for the weekend...