Monday, June 20, 2005

Who me?

So Friday night, my buddy calls me at 10:30pm and says, "Hey, come down and let's surf tomorrow!" Hell yeah! First, I haven't surfed with him for months and its Newport... Saturday morning rolls around, I wake up at 6, take his bike (yes, he lives that damn close!) and check the surf... not great, but there were some waves (maybe waist high)... I wake him up and we're in the water at 6:30... Man, the currents were just gnar... every time I paddled to a certain spot, I would be down the beach 30 seconds later... anyway, I sucked it up pretty bad... I caught3 waves and one of them was when I tried to pull out but ended up catching the wave on my ass... AND I FORGOT SUN BLOCK!!! my face was burning the rest of the day...

Sunday was soo much better!! Took out the Tanker cause I knew the waves wouldn't be so great... And, don't you hate it when you have to be somewhere (Father's day lunch) and the waves are fun? Well my wave of the day... actually, I'm gonna be bold and say that it was the wave of the morning... It was getting pretty crowded at the point so I decided to sit way out and wait for the set waves... I was beginning to think, "Dude, what am I doin? I'm too far out.." So I wait 5 more minutes and damn glad I did... a set wave rolls in so I turn around and start paddling... right in front of me is a longboarder shitting his pants cause he sees me paddling right at him... I realize that he's frozen and not gonna move, so I angle my board to the left... This is the best part... I pop up, start goin left, just to make sure I don't run over the human iceberg, bottom turn around him to the top of the wave... Then I cross step and Hang 5!!! HELL YEAH!!! that was sooo rad!!! I'm still stoked on it!!! And the hoots I was getting made the moment even better... Damn that was a good session!!!

And a final note or two... I understand that the waves are small and no bueno during the summer... but why would you go and say, "Damn these waves are fucking crap!!" I don't get it... are you used to surfing world class waves? Go surf somewhere else....

And lastly, if you're sitting inside and try to steal my wave... don't get right in front of me... This happened to me twice, by the same guy, and he didn't even catch them... I don't mind sharing, but when you don't catch them, what's the point? Next time, your getting a longboard up your ass!!!

Holy crap and I can't believe I forgot this... I saw a guy on a light blue longboard... get this, his board had a spike on the nose... Really?? You gotta be fucking kidding me!!!

Monday, June 13, 2005

Holy Smokes!!!

Whoa!!! I think its been almost a month since my last post... probably cause the surf has sucked major ass... I've been surfin the Dewey for a while now and stoked to have it... catching a lot of waves before the shortboarders..

So, this past Saturday, I surfed county... pretty crappy when I got in the water and a lot of waiting... maybe after 30 minutes, it started to get good... probably because of the tide push... damn I was a wave hog!!! Peaky, knee to waist and textured waves... still a lot of fun... I did a late take off and heard someone say, "OOOO airdrop!!" Now that I think about it, its been 3years and a month since i first got addicted... and damn I think I'm doing pretty well...

There was a good vibe out there... my motto is, "Dude, if its small, then I'll share my wave... Just make sure you're far enough in front of me and hit the gas..." There was a lot of wave sharing, but it was cool...

I do have to mention the time someone tried to drop in on me... probably 2-3 weeks ago... as usual, before I pop up on any wave, I look to the shoulder just to make sure I don't drop in on anyone... if the coast is clear, then I'm goin... so I took off on a left and rode the wave a good 10ft... then disaster!!! what do I see you ask? Someone trying to catch my wave... I saw him look over at me, so I stayed on the wave thinking he was gonna sit up and let me finish my wave... Yeah right!! this kook just pops up and starts to go straight!!! DUDE WTF!!! Too close to turn towards the beach or water, so I run in to him and push him down... and I think I landed on top of him... and what excuse does he give? "Sorry man, I thought you were going right.." HOLY SH!T.. are you kidding me!!! how the hell was I going right when I was coming right at you!!! It took all of my energy to hold back.. not because he dropped in... next time, just say sorry and ask I'm ok... next time, you're getting a black eye..

Hope the waves are good where you are!!!