I lag

Dang its Thursday and I'm just writing about my last session now... probably lagging cause there wasn't much surf out there.. Saturday, I took out the single fin and caught a few waves. Now I know why I get mean mugs when I surfin the tanker. DAMN LONGBOARDERS!!! Sunday was a lot better; maybe because I had the tanker. Caught a lot of set waves and of course, people dropped in on me... Didn't really care cause they were pretty good. I wonder if people will understand what to do when I yell out, "Figure 8's!!!" Something to try out next time.. And I still have to work on the nose ride take off. Looks like a lot of fun!

And damn there was a lot of running over going on!! There was a beginner out there (I tried to help him out) and he dropped in on one of the locals (I guess he's a local. He's always there when I am, even when I ditch work) and the local ran him over. Nothing he could really do because the newbie took off right when the local was passing. On a side note, this local can really surf. I really enjoy watching him.

Then there was the chickie accident.. Some chick (let's call her Hattie, for obvious reasons) was paddling for a set wave and a newbie chick was paddling out to get over the wave... Yeah, they were paddling into each other and Hattie just ran over the newbie.. I mean head on! I'm thinking, "Oh shit! Time to call the ambulance!" After the white water clears, they both appear unhurt... DAMN they're lucky!! The newbie's board had a new skeg gash... maybe 5-6 inches long... Didn't get to see Hattie's fin (or lack of fin)...

Well, its off to SD this weekend and for those of you interested, the Bruce Irons Movie is debuting in Costa Mesa this Saturday at 9pm with a suprise band!

And remember, Sharing is Caring!!!

Long time no type

Wow! My last post was 6/20/05... not much to talk about... I think the few times I paddled; more like walked out, it was pretty bad... good thing I have the tanker... Did I mention I have a new surf buddy... my brother's good friend from high school... she's pretty good so that's cool...

So I went on a mini vacation to NY this past week and damn it was HUMID!!! I took 3 showers a day, a least!! but a lot of fun.. next time I stay with a friend, I have to make sure they don't live on the 6th floor!!! and no elevator!!! walking up the stairs was an adventure in itself.. DAMN!!!

Before I left for NY, I rediscovered the single fin... man I love my boards!!! after 30 minutes of stuggling, I figured out what I was doing wrong, fixed it and caught a lot of waves... probably from being on the tanker so much... dont really have to try on it...

Well, the water looks like its warming up!!! AHH YEAH!!! Anybody hitting up County? If so, let me know... I'd really like to meet everyone I read about online...

Til next time!!!